Artesonraju 6025m
An Expedition to the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca to climb Vallunaraju/Huarapasca/Artesonraju in Jun/Jul 2012 ( Exact dates tbc)
Max group size 6
A three week expedition to climb Artesonraju in the Peruvian Andes with an acclimatisation ascent of Vallunaraju and a technical warm up ascent of Huarapasca included.
Introduction and Expedition Outline
This expedition is centered around the objectives of getting away from the commercial mountaineering hotspots in the Andes and giving the participants the ability to hone their skills, acclimatize properly and climb a semi technical 6000m peak.
There are also sufficient flex/rest days built into the itinerary to ensure that we have contingency for poor weather/itinerary changes.
Vallunaraju 5686m
We will acclimatize on Vallunaraju (5686m) a non technical peak and then practice our technical skills on Huarapasca (5420m), a semi technical one day climb on a mountain not visited by any of the other commercial mountaineering companies before heading to Artesonraju (6025m) to climb the south-east face route, on mostly 50-60° snow and ice.
Team members should ideally be comfortable climbing Alpine AD or Scottish III/IV, however with a ratio of 2:1 (climber to guide on the technical peaks) you can relax in the knowledge that there will be someone there to assist you at all times. The emphasis will be on increasing your technical skills and involving everyone in the decision making process to ensure you develop your confidence further.
After recovering from our trans Atlantic flight in a comfortable three star Lima hotel we will depart next morning by local bus for Huaraz. We spend the night there in the Olazes guesthouse and after an orientation meeting in the morning we will hike up to the Lazy Dog Inn for a night of further acclimatization.
After a day hike to Laguna Churup (4500m) we will head back down to Huaraz for an early night at lower altitude and a good nights sleep. The next day we transfer onto Llaca valley for our ascent of Vallunaraju which is undertaken after a days hike up to moraine camp
Then its back to Huaraz for a day of rest and a chance to enjoy the sights and sounds of this South American town, the climbing centre of the Cordillera Blanca.
Next day an early start (3am, but do not worry you can sleep for hours on the bus) gets us on our way to the seldom visited Huarapasca (5420m) which will give us an opportunity to test our skills on this single day technical but fun summit climb.
Next day, again in Huaraz we rest and prepare for Artesonraju
In the morning we leave and transfer to Cashapampa for our seven day trip to Artesonraju
Objectives accomplished we head back to Lima via Tuallipampa camp and Huaraz-Lima for our return flights to the UK.
Huarapasca 5420m
Outline Itinerary
Whilst we will make every attempt to stick as closely to this itinerary as possible we cannot be responsible for any acts of nature, bad weather, illness in the group, etc. There are however more than enough rest/spare days built into this plan to ensure we have the necessary slack in the program to account for most issues.
The itinerary is a guide to what is possible and it may be that if the group acclimatizes well then more can be accomplished.
Day 1 Arrive Lima, transport to hotel. Night in Lima, hotel San Antonio Abad (www.hotelsanantonioabad.com)
Day 2 Transport to Huaraz via bus, 9:30am departure / 5:30pm arrival. Transfer to hotel, night in hotel, Olazas Guesthouse (www.olazas.com)
Day 3 Orientation meeting in morning, transfer to (or day hike) to Lazy Dog Inn for night (www.thelazydoginn.com), night in lodge – 3650m.Options for day hikes, bouldering, horse rides, etc from lodge
Day 4 Rest day in Lazy Dog – Day hikes, bouldering, horse rides, etc.
Day 5 Day hike to Laguna Churup (4500m), return to Lazy Dog Inn for night.
Day 6 Transfer to Llaca Valley for Vallunaraju segment. Camp in valley floor (4500m); rock climbing options or ‘acclimatize’.
Day 7 Hike up to Vallunaraju moraine camp (4900m), camp.
Day 8 Summit day on Vallunaraju (5686m), descend to moraine camp, continue to valley floor and transport back to Huaraz. Night in hotel, Olazas Guesthouse
Day 9 Rest day in Huaraz – Olazas Guesthouse
Day 10 Single Day Climb on Huarapasca (5420m), return to Huaraz for night in hotel, Olazas Guesthouse
Day 11 Optional Rest day in Huaraz – Olazas Guesthouse
Day 12 Transfer to Cashapampa and begin approach to Artesonraju. Camp in Llamacorral (3800m)
Day 13 Continue to Taullipampa (4100m), camp
Day 14 Ascend to Artesonraju moraine camp (5100m), camp.
Day 15 Rest day at moraine camp
Day 16 Summit day on Artesonraju North Ridge (6025m). Return to Taullipampa, camp.
Day 17 Rest day Taullipampa.
Day 18 Descend to Cashapampa, return to Huaraz, night in hotel, Olazas Guesthouse
Day 19 Spare Day
Day 20 Travel to Lima on day bus, transfer to hotel or airport
Day 21 Return flight (after 11:30pm on the 20th, or on the 21st anytime)
What’s included in the price
• Professional Mountain Guides (3:1 ratio on Vallunaraju / 2:1 on Huarapasca & Artesonraju)
• Expedition Cook(s) throughout expedition
• Pack animals for the ascent/descent to Artesonraju Basecamp
• Porter assistance for ascent/decent to and from Artesonraju Morraine camp.
• Private transports as follows:
Ø Pick‐up from airport in Lima, transfer to hotel
Ø Transfer hotel in Lima to bus station
Ø Pick‐up bus station in Huaraz, transfer to hotel
Ø Huaraz to Lazy Dog
Ø Lazy Dog to Churup and back to Lazy Dog
Ø Lazy Dog to Vallunaraju
Ø Vallunaraju to Huaraz
Ø Huaraz to Huarapasca round trip
Ø Huaraz to Cashapampa, round trip
Ø Drop‐off at bus station in Huaraz after trip
Ø Transfer in Lima at end of trip to airport or hotel
• First class bus tickets between Lima and Huaraz round trip
• 1 night’s accommodation in Lima, Hotel San Antonio Abad
• 3 night’s accommodation plus full meal plan, Lazy Dog Inn
• 7 night’s accommodation in Huaraz, Olazas Guesthouse
• National Park Fees and all entry fees
• All food during expedition, prepared (3 healthy meals per day plus snacks)
• Eating tent, table, chairs to/from Artesonraju Basecamp
• All cooking & eating utensils for valley and high camp including stoves, fuel, etc
• Sleeping tents, 4 season
• All group technical climbing equipment
• Rock climbing gear (minus climbing shoes) for climbing in Llaca
• First‐aid supplies
• Satellite Telephone for emergency use (other calls will be billed at $2.00 additional per
minute)
• Adventure emergency response (24 hour on‐call person in Huaraz)
Not Included:
• International travel to/from Peru
• All in town meals and/or additional entertainment
• Guide for acclimatization activities (Churup hike, Lazy Dog activities)
• Personal clothing & gear (see attached clothing list)
• Personal climbing equipment (plastic boots, harness, helmet, axes, crampons, rock
climbing shoes) ** can be rented for an additional fee, ask for details
• Hotel in Lima on final day of itinerary (we can organize this if requested)
• Any costs associated with evacuations or unscheduled departures from the field
• Unscheduled nights in hotel
• Medical or incidental expenditures
• Travel or personal medical insurance
Price Per Person: (based on a 6 person team) £2500 per person
On the summit ridge of Artensonraju
