Spantik 2016

2016 Spantik 7027m Expedition.

Outline information Dates Mid July – Aug 2016 TBC



The expedition will be organised and arranged by myself, Chris Horobin of Wildcountry Consultants.

I have climbed and organised expeditions in many of the Greater Ranges of the world: Argentina, Peru, Nepal, Ladakh, Pakistan and last year ran a successful first ascent expedition to Telthop a difficult peak to access in Ladakh.

As well as running my own expedition company I have worked for British Exploring, Jagged Globe, the Mountain Company and Adventure Peaks.

This expedition is not a package holiday.

It is assumed that participants will be experienced and properly equipped to take part as an expedition member and not as a fully supported individual.

Advice, kit lists etc will all be given but participants must take responsibility for their own preparation, safety and participation, ensuring that they apply for and obtain Visa’s, travel tickets etc.

The success of the expedition depends upon ALL the team members and is not just my responsibility.

That said access to these mountains require that every expedition has a designated leader to take responsibility for the multifarious issues surrounding access, in-country staff welfare, environmental responsibility etc etc. I am happy to take this role on board but require every member to play his or her part.

The organisation of any expedition to Pakistan is quite complex and firm commitment to this expedition must be given before 31st Jan 2016, this will take the place of a £500 non-returnable deposit.

The price quoted below is dependant upon the exchange rate with the American Dollar and may change. I am not running this expedition as a profit making enterprise but simply because I want to climb this mountain and require a team large enough to make it financially viable.

The following info is from our in-country agents Hunza Guides.

I have worked with them before in the Karakorum and found them to provide excellent services.

They are not the cheapest but if I were to be faced with a problem in Pakistan I would not have anyone else sorting my issues out.

Once I have commitment from the appropriate number of participants ( min 4 ) I will work to firm up dates.

Spantik 1.jpg

Spantik 7027m Some History

The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. Its highest is 7027m/ 23,0555ft.
In 1892 a large expedition of W.M. Conway went to the area to explore the glacier situated around the peak. The expedition thereafter crossed Nushik pass, which it claims is 5,273m high, and descended onto Kero Lungma glacier and Arandu. As regards Nushik pass, modern maps indicate its height as 4,990m.

The peak was however, climbed in 1878, from the south ridge, by Japan Hoshi-to-Arashi (star and storm) Club expedition which was led by Nakamura. The Reiho Alpine Club expedition of Japan also climbed it in the area and both approached the peak from Chogolungma glacier.


Technical Information

Spantik is, in reality, a three-in-one mountain. In fact, climbing to C2 and C3. In itself is magnificent, in the way that each camp is established on a mini summit of South- East Ridge, with a view of 360 degree.

The success of this adventure, apart from weather conditions, depends upon the physical ability of each participant, and, on their experience of high mountains.

The roped parties should be self-sufficient on the main glacier difficulties (45/50 degree) with fixed cords. The participants will be expected to participate as much as possible in the installation of fixed equipment.

The expedition is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers of AD Level, reasonably non-technical ground.

High altitude experience is also preferable, previous climbing of any circa 6000m peak would be ideal.

Being physically fit is a prerequisite in order to enjoy this expedition as participants will have to help establish camps and carry equipment to high altitude.


A full risk assessment will be provided.

During the 18 days on the mountain, we will have one objective, to climb

Spantik, to accomplish this we will need three high altitude camps:
Camp-I at about 4450m, less uneven path but away from the base camp
(we climb up to the birthplace of Chogolungma glacier, about 8 km.

Camp-II at 5300m

Camp-III at 6050m

Certain parts of the path between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without problem
Climbing to C2 and C3 are magnificent paths, as each camp is installed at a mini summit of southeastern ridge giving a view of 360 degree.
The distribution of collective tasks for high altitude camps is based on rotation among mountaineers, team and the guide (or guides)
From Camp 3, there will still be 950m of uneven path that will have to be covered within one day in order to reach the summit.
Going and coming between camps will help you for acclimatization, the key to success in majority of cases. The dismantling of camps will also be a collective task done under the guidance of the guide


Base camp- Summit

  •  BC to Camp I: Gentle Climb, initially climbing over loose stones, then gentle climb all along the ridge.
  •  Camp I to Camp II: First you go down about 100 to 150 meters, cross a crevasse then gentle snow climb.
  •  Camp II to Camp III: initially crossing a Traverse about 200m of fixed rope required, then smooth climb to camp-III.
  •  Camp III to Summit: Gentle climb through comparatively deep snow then at the end about 60 degree climb (Ice /Snow) Better start at mid-night for summit from C-III.

Program: Spantik (7027-M) Expedition 2016

Outline Itinerary ( Subject to change by weather and participants )


01  Islamabad: Welfare meeting with Alpine Club of Pakistan Hotel

02  Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12 hrs Hotel

03  Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9 hrs Hotel

04  Drive to Aroundo 6-7 hrs Camp

05  Trek to Chogo Brangsa camp 3,300m. Camp

06  Trek to Bolocho camp 3,800m. Camp

07  Trek to Spantik base camp 4,300m. Camp

08/23 16 days for climbing Camp

24  Trek down to Bolocho 4-5 hrs Camp

25  Trek down to Aroundo 4-5 hrs Camp

26  Drive back to Skardu 6-7 hrs Hotel

27  Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs Hotel

28  Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs Hotel

29  Morning farewell meeting with Alpine Club, afternoon sightseeing Hotel

Prices ( excluding flights and visa costs )


£3000.00 p/person

Price based sharing twin room & tent

Services included in given price

Climbing permit fee 1500U$
CKNP Fee 68 U$ per person
Member’s personal baggage 75KGs
Additional member royalty fee 180U$ per additional member above 7/pax
Issuing pollution guarantee letter to Ministry of Tourism (duly singed by expedition leader)


Islamabad: Chilas: Skardu:

Transport: 4 X4 Jeeps:

Prestige Residence or Hill View hotel (bed and breakfast) Midway Shangri-La or Panorama hotel (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Concordia Motel or Masherbrum hotel (breakfast, lunch, dinner)

Air-condition mini bus from Islamabad to Chilas, Skardu, back to Islamabad, pick and drop from airport to hotel, airport

Skardu, Askoli and Hushe to Skardu

Camping Food: Porters:

Camping Equipment: Kitchen utensils: General Services:

Aroundo, Spantik BC, back to Aroundo, including 16 days in base camp

Aroundo, Spantik BC, back to Aroundo
Porters, wages, food, equipment, transport, and their insurance

Guide & cook, their wages, camp food, transport and insurance
D3V sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, mattress, chairs, tables table lamps Complete kitchen utensils (crockery)

Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club
Cargo equipment store in HGP office
Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club
Assist to deposit royalty fee and obtain climbing permit Assist to deposit pollution fee in ministry of tourism Tips for baggage handling at airport & at hotels

Fess: (Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping) International flights tickets re-confirmation

Services not included in given price

International flight
Tips for drivers, porters and staff
Hotel meals in Islamabad lunch & dinner
Single supplement £200 per single
If need extra low altitude porters 10 U$ per Kg per porter
Airport taxes/cargo and custom clearance fee
Helicopter charges 10,000U$ in case of use for rescue
No any services or equipment above base camp
Transfers to and from airports for participants making individual air arrangements
Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour
All personal expenses such as telephone, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks, room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature.

Some of the exact details will be firmed up as we proceed with the organisation of this expedition. Meantime I am happy to take verbal confirmation of interest to see if this expedition is feasible.

Feel free to contact me on 01373 455668, 07785 343519 or